Thursday 28 June 2012

Caff of the month: Terry’s Cafe, London SE1

It’s the law…

…that at least one meal a week must be taken in a caff.


In 1877, this law was passed for the preservation of daftness in society and generally slowing down the pace of evolution. If you break this law, it is punishable with six swift clocks across the chops with a frying pan.

The reasons this law came about seem very simple to us at Mastery of Daftery:

Reason 1: A good caff is always about taking a step away from all that is grown-up, professional, serious and sensible. You can slop your tea in a caff with no fear of shame or scorn from fellows.

Reason 2: A good caff is about eating some solid grub and drinking several mugs of very strong tea – poured from a giant metal teapot.

Reason 3: A good caff is about a blast of banter from caff staff and regulars. It’s about tabloid newspaper indulgence and sweeping statements about everything from football to tax-dodging rich folk.

Reason 4: A good caff has its very own style of service – they’re always there with their little paper pad and pen, your food turns up sharpish – but at the same time, one thing is very clear. They are not at all bothered about impressing you.

That’s why from this moment forward there will be a Caff of the Month slot on Mastery of Daftery…

…to celebrate the best caffs discovered in this daft stumble that is life.

I happened upon Terry’s Café this week in Southwark…

Started up in 1982 by, yes, a bloke called Terry – Terry’s Café is about a very decent sausage with some fat chips. It’s about steak sandwiches, English brekkies, omelettes, sandwiches – all served up on tables with chequered table cloths – nothing out of the ordinary there.

But Terry’s Café is also about 1920s to 1950s jazz music (which makes a nice change to Kiss FM). It helps you take that step away from the real world while you have your lunch.

It’s about old photos of the area covering all available wall space. And boxing gloves. And old-fashioned clocks.


It’s about an overdose of patriotism – from the Union Jacks through to the royal celebration plates, which feature Her Royal Daftness at various stages of her diamond-studded command.


Terry’s son, Austin, now runs the show there. I did ask Austin to give me a smile for this photo, to which he put his hands on his hips and said ‘I’m known for being miserable.'


Austin tells me the secret to a good caff is very simple. Good food for a good price with good service. And I can vouch for them delivering on this at Terry’s Café – my food arrived quickly, the sausage was blimmin’ delicious and it set me back just £3.80.

Here are Austin and his Dad, Terry, modelling their stripy aprons in two different yet fashionable styles.


And here’s my empty plate at Terry’s café. Job done.


Terry’s Café can be found at 158 Great Suffolk St, London SE1. Trading hours are Monday to Friday: 7am to 2pm; Saturday 7.30am to midday; Sunday closed.

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